PipSqueakAdultDaschundX

I practiced these exercises in more distractions (Long Sands) with Pippy: NOTE YOUR HOMEWORK STAYS THE SAME EXCEPT YOU SHOULD WORK IN MORE DISTRACTIONS NOW WITH THE ECOLLAR (MAYBE BUILD UP SLOWLY).   YOU CAN ALSO PRACTICE WITHOUT THE ECOLLAR, BUT REMEMBER YOU NEED TO DIAL DOWN THE DISTRACTIONS AND BUILD UP SLOWLY FOR THAT.   REMEMBER TO WALK HER ON A STRUCTURED WALK ESPECIALLY WHEN TRAINING.   YOU CAN HAVE JUST FUN WALKS WITH HER TOO. Circle  Sit Stays for 1 Minute at Long Sands Beach with Pippy: Distance Still Sit Stays with Pippy on Long Sands: Pippy Still Sit Stays on Long Sands Beach I did not video this, but this was Pippy on the bench place (that I helped her up on) at Long Sands.

NOTE 1:  TEXT BELOW IN BLUE GOES DIRECTLY TO THE DIRECTIONS OR VIDEO FOR EACH EXERCISE. NOTE 2:  YOU SHOULD WORK WITH YOUR DOG FOR AN HOUR EACH DAY.  I TEND TO SEPARATE THE OBEDIENCE TRAINING UP INTO NO MORE THAN 15 MINUTE SECTIONS.  SO I DO ONE OF THE CALMING EXERCISES FOR HALF THE DAY (EXCEPT PUPPY EXAM WHICH ONLY TAKES 15 MINUTES).  THEN THE REST OF THE DAY I DO SESSIONS ON OBEDIENCE EXERCISES. NOTE 3:  YOU CAN USE FOOD WITH THE ECOLLAR TRAINING TO TREAT HER WHEN SHE PERFORMS CORRECTLY OR UNEXPECTEDLY DOES NOT DO SOMETHING YOU DON'T WANT HER TO DO BUT YOU EXPECTED HER TO DO. NOTE 4:  YOU CAN PROBABLY DO WORK IN A QUIET OUTSIDE AREA ON SIT ON THE DOG, RELAX FOR EXAM, SITS, LET'S GO, SEND TO PLACE (IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING PORTABLE), AND CIRCLE PLACE (ALTHOUGH YOU MAY NEED TO DECREASE THIS TO ONE CIRCLE AT A TIME OUTSIDE AND THEN BUILD IT UP).   Behavioral Calming Exercises That You Can Rotate on Different Days: (Example Monday might be Sit on ...

  Mannerly Mutts E-Collar Usage Notes (Educator) Online full manual link to Educator Collar      Turning E-Collar on and off. Two red dots (one on collar and one on remote) are magnets.  This turns off (or on) the collar only. Line them up. Test with vibration button, which is the lone button on the side 2.  Turning the remote on and off                 a.  Large button on back turns off collar (small button changes mode so don't touch that).                 b.  Hold the large button down until you see the screen on the front come on (or go off if                           you are shutting it off for the evening. Charging E-Collar Daily. Turn collar off AND remote before putting it on charger. Charger used with collar and remote. Round hole covered by rubber in back or side (remote) is where it plus ...

Sit Reps with the Electronic collar: ***Some or all of these can be done in the above exercise, when the dog is called back to you.   Simply place them in a sit after a "let's go" or "come".   They can also be done as a stand alone. Equipment needed:    Electronic collar, flat or training collar for leash attachment, and long line or 6' leash. STEP 1:  . Make sure you have turned the electronic collar on correctly (use the vibrate button, which on the dogtra is the last button away from the antenna side).   Also make sure the collar was put on tight enough. STEP 2:   Come to a stop from whatever you are doing (walking with the dog or following the dog around).   Be sure that you have access to stepping on the long line fairly close to your dog.   In fact in the beginning, you may want to be stepping on it already. STEP 3:   Issue the command "sit". STEP 3A:   Give them a second.   If they sit within that time, be sure t...

Let's Go command.   So remember let's go means just move towards me.   You can tighten that up as much as you would like to be closer or farther away.   At the very beginning, I like them to come at least six feet from me. STEP 1:  Hold the long line appropriately through the handle STEP 2:  Begin walking your planned path until the dog is not following you anymore and has become distracted or not paying attention to what you are doing STEP 3:  At that point say "Let's Go" or "[Dog's Name] Let's Go" if you prefer. STEP 4A:  If the dog immediately comes towards you say "Good Boy" or "Good Let's Go".   STEP 4B:   If the dog doesn't (wait a couple of seconds to give them a chance, but not too long), use the top button (called the nick button) on the Dogtra collar and tap it repeatedly until the dog turns toward you, and then stop and encourage your dog forward STEP 4C:  If your dog gets confused or stuck wit...

 

NOTE 1:  TEXT BELOW IN BLUE GOES DIRECTLY TO THE DIRECTIONS OR VIDEO FOR EACH EXERCISE. NOTE 2:  YOU SHOULD WORK WITH YOUR DOG FOR AN HOUR EACH DAY.  I TEND TO SEPERATE THE OBEDIENCE TRAINING UP INTO NO MORE THAN 15 MINUTE SECTIONS. NOTE 3:  THE ONLY THINGS WE ARE USING FOOD WITH  ARE DOWN, ATTENTION TO NAME, AND LET'S GO. NOTE 4:  YOU CAN PROBABLY DO WORK IN A QUIET OUTSIDE AREA ON SIT ON THE DOG, RELAX FOR EXAM, SITS, LET'S GO, SEND TO PLACE (IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING PORTABLE), AND CIRCLE PLACE (ALTHOUGH YOU MAY NEED TO DECREASE THIS TO ONE CIRCLE AT A TIME OUTSIDE AND THEN BUILD IT UP).   Behavioral Calming Exercises That You Can Rotate on Different Days: (Example Monday might be Sit on The Dog, Tuesday might be 30 minute Long Place, Wednesday might be 15 min relax for exam) Sit on The Dog   30 + minutes   Goal:  Is for the dogs to settle in less than 5 minutes in the area you are working in (remember that it can be longer than that...

  NOTE:  I AM GOING TO WRITE DOWN DIRECTIONS FOR THIS.   THIS IS USED SO INFREQUENTLY, THAT I DON'T HAVE WRITTEN DIRECTIONS FOR THIS (THAT I SAVED ANYWAY).   IN THE MEANTIME, THIS IS THE VIDEO ENDING WITH THE UNDER THE CHAIR MOVE THAT I SHOWED YOU.

  Equipment needed: Long Line, Training Collar, Food Reward (if that is what we are working with)   STEP 1:  You will be wanting to hold the end of the long leash for this one. STEP 2:     In the opposite hand, you will want to be holding the food reward. STEP 3:    Let your puppy get distracted.  If they go to the end of the line, just keep constant tension on until they turn towards you.   When they look at you OR they are not putting pressure on the line (in other words distracted but not going to the end of the line and they do not need to be looking at you) say the command "let's go". STEP 5A:   When your puppy starts to come towards you, say "good girl/boy" and then  they get to you give them the food reward. STEP 5B:   If your puppy does not turn towards you, give a little tug on the leash, and the instant they lock eyes and come towards you say "good boy or girl" encouragingly until they get to you.  ...

  Long place is technically the 4th step in the overall place command:   First step is intro.  Intro is just walking the dog and letting them pass over it.  "Place" is said when all paws are on the place. Second step is teaching the dog to step on the place themselves. Third step is teaching them that there is a boundary they should not step off. Fourth step is beginning to proof and advance this exercise by having them keep themselves on the place for a period of time.   Trainer only gets involved if they try to leave. This teaches your dog that you might very well be in a seated position when they are in a place (while the third step has started the idea that you may be moving around the room).   This is tricky for dogs as they usually want to be petted or cuddled when you take a seat, but it is important that owners have time to read, work, eat a meal, and so on without constantly needing to pay attention to their dog.   Usually ...

   THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE (STEP 1): STEP 1:   Position your place equipment in the middle of the room. STEP 2:  Start walking your dog around the room. STEP 3:   Walk  with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place". STEP 4:   Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this). STEP 5:  After several (15 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog is ready to step on themselves.   SEND TO PLACE (STEP 2): STEP 1:   You still have a leash and collar on your dog.   The place (board, mat, dog bed) item is in the middle of the room so you can walk around it, and use all sides to place your dog (so that they do not generalize). STEP 2:    Now as you a...

  NOTE 1:  ALL HOMEWORK SHOULD BE DONE ON LEASH AND TRAINING COLLAR (YOUR MARTINGALE IN THIS CASE). NOTE 2:  1 HOUR A DAY IS THE TIME YOU SHOULD BE WORKING YOUR DOG.  HOWEVER, EXCEPT FOR THE SIT ON THE DOG, ALL TRAINING SESSIONS SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN FIFTEEN MINUTES (AND CAN BE SHORTER).  FOR INSTANCE WITH THE LURING, I WOULD PROBABLY DO TWO SESSIONS OF FIVE MINUTES A DAY. NOTE 3:  LINKS TO EXERCISES TO READ ARE IN BLUE. Sit on The Dog 30 + minutes     Goal:  Is for the dogs to settle in less than 5 minutes in the area you are working in (remember that it can be longer than that, but this is what I look for), and learn to relax next to you.  Relax for Exam 15 minutes   Goal:  Just to have your dog learn to relax with you while they are being handled. Luring Sit, Down, Attention to Name two 5 minute sessions Goal:    To get four in a row of what you are looking for (for instance, the down is going to be a...

  EXERCISE 1  Their Name Meaning Attention to You in Distractions: NOTE:  THE FIRST FOUR EXCERCISES CAN BE DONE IN A LURING SESSION BY ROTATING THEM.  IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE WITH ONE, YOU CAN SEPERATE THAT OUT FOR ANOTHER SESSION LATER. STEP 1:   Your puppy should be on their 6' lead and a collar. STEP 2:    Be sure you are prepared with  kibble in your hand  BEFORE giving a command. STEP 3:   Say your puppy's name. STEP 4A:     Immediately upon your dog looking into your face (and not glancing immediately away), say your release word "yes" and deliver the food reward as you release them. STEP 4B:    If they do not look to you, first try calling their name again.   Give them a few seconds in between so you aren't just rapidly firing off their name.   If they are just really enamored of something other than you, you could try to gently tug on their leash and see if they will turn.   You could als...

  STEP 1:    The owner should be in a seated position somewhere comfortable. STEP 2:   Hold the puppy on your lap on their back. STEP 3:    Any time the puppy squirms or struggles, just hold them to your firmly. STEP 4:    When the puppy is calm ONLY (do not do this while mouthing ET, because we are teaching to be calm when being examined) start examining each part of her body (paws, in between toes, ears, belly as if for ticks, legs ***this can also show you any unusual growths or changes***, teeth, ET). Do this for about a fifteen minutes  while watching TV or relaxing in bed each day.

Exercise: Sit on The Dog (do not confuse with the down exercise later on) Equipment needed: Metal Training Collar (for puppies a flat collar will due but be sure they can't slip their head out if it's too loose), 6' leather lead, chair for handler to sit on that they aren't too worried about (IE an antique chair would not be a good idea, especially for a dog that might try to chew something other than their toy while you aren't watching, but a good metal folding chair will do), silence which means no verbal commands, praise, or corrections. Also no conversations of any sort with your dog. Objective and Goals: This exercise starts the leadership portion of dog training in a very non confrontational way. You are defining the space and activity that the dog will inhabit while you are engaged in other activities. It starts the process of showing the dog how to quiet themselves down during certain times of day, and employ self control in distracting situations. ...

  Dog owners tend to wince at the suggestion of using a correction.   So many dog owners associate the word "correction" in dog training with punishment or treating their dog harshly.  This is not what is meant by most dog trainers or dog sports enthusiasts. My definition of a dog training correction is to further advance a position, speed, or behavior through communication the dog understands to mean what they had just done is not what was wanted and therefore offers another option or stops something. Some examples of corrections are verbal markers, spatial pressure, and the use of some training equipment.   Please note that corrections should not be used, generally speaking, until the dog has started and advanced through the f irst stages of dog training , which is teaching.    Once a performance can be reliably predicted to a standard, then you are ready to correct errors or non performance. NOTE: CORRECTIONS ARE NOT USUALLY USED IN DOG TRAININ...

  If you have ever looked into finding a complete dog training plan for your dog, you probably found a confusing amount of information out there.  Some of one method's rules probably contradicted another's method rules. Does this mean some people are using methods and training and that don't work?  Why can some methods be so different, but still seem to get great results for the dog training team? I have put a list of dog training definitions used, and the way I have interpreted them to help you if you find yourself stuck on a term that is not familiar to you.   Please go to   this post . Just because a method is different than another, does not mean it does not work on it's own merits.  It is really about how the plan came together, the logic of the plan, if the plan has been proofed, and what the results are for individual teams.  A well crafted method or dog training plan takes into account the strengths in particular of both dog and owner....

  Dog lovers know that a dog's physical appearance as far as size, hair length, hair color, ears shape, curly or flat coated, age, and so on.   Dog's are also individuals, and these internal characteristics do not show on their outsides.  These personality traits and temperaments can vary wildly from playful, wary, suspicious, defensive, resource guarding, driven, active, laid back, and so forth.   Add to the mix that some dogs have some training or real life experiences that may be useful as a dog owner or trainer creates a training plan.  Recently, one of our blogs went over  why there are so many different methods, techniques, and tools  that help a dog owner to train their dog. A professional dog trainer will look at the dog you have right now (as best they can in the time they have) to determine the right path to start down.  A dog owner who is honest with themselves can begin to assess this too.   None of these traits det...

  Engagement in dog training is the ability to create a relationship with your dog where you are the reward. Engagement done well will have your dog insisting on continuing the activity with their owner. In other methods of training, there are some elements of this as well, but the engagement that I am talking about is much more. Engagement in dog training is more about play with their owner or handler to create that very strong bond and work ethic. As with anything, it can have it's pluses and minuses. I really enjoy this method, because I get to play with my dog and train. The thing that motivates me in this method, is seeing my dog have fun while we are doing it. Why do I also use other methods other than Engagement and Motivational methods? One reason is this is a bit slower process than some other methods in the shorter term.   Sometimes if you really need to stop your dog from jumping on your elderly relatives, while including them in your family activities, you mig...